Hashemite Kingdom of
JORDAN
February 8th, 2015
Jordan
by Seer Oon Hor
Jordan is an amazing country with a reputation of warm friendly people. Due to recent political issues in the Middle East, its tourism has taken a slump, which is sad. We thoroughly enjoyed our journey in Jordan, which started 11pm in Amman. We organised a taxi to drive us directly to Wadi Rum desert (4 hours away). Mehedi, who runs Bedouin Directions, kindly offered us to stay 'overnight' in his home in Rum Village. It was very basic Bedouin style bedding and the night was cold. The next morning our Bedouin and desert experience started.
Wadi Rum
Lawrence Spring, Khazali Canyon, Red Sand Dunes, Anfishieh Incriptions, House of Lawrence, Lunch in the desert, view of Burdah Arch, Um Frouth Arch, Small Sand Dune, sunset near "The Chicken", traditional Bedouin dinner.
We woke up with an amazing run rise behind the desert mountain. The journey with a private tour by Salah in a rather battered Toyota Land Cruiser from Rum Village into the Wadi Rum desert. It was such a strange experience going from tarmac into the sand. Despite lack of sleep, we truly enjoyed the ever changing landscape. No road signs or directions. All Salah has was his years of experience navigating in the desert and different shape of its mountains. We first arrived in Lawrence Spring which as the name suggests, a point of water source in the desert. We then visited Khazali Canyon which externally looks like melting caramel cake but internally is formed by beautifully carved red sand stone canyon. Before we left, a generous Bedouin offered us traditional Bedouin coffee (coffee infused with cardamom). After coffee, Salah took us to a spot for sand boarding, which was a first for us and it was an amazing experience. He also showed us the Anfishieh Inscription which depicts camel caravans of traders which used the desert as trading route to and from Saudi Arabia. He then drove us to his 'kitchen' which was the open desert and made us cooked lunch! It was simple but what an amazing experience! After lunch Salah took a nap in the middle of the desert while we mingle and enjoyed the expense of the desert on our own. Small Sand Dunes was an interesting hike where you can experience the change in sand colour from brown, white to red. As we walked further we were greeted by a spectacular view of evening sun. We had an amazing sunset near "The Chicken", a rock formation which looks like a chicken. In the evening we head back our camp for a traditional Bedouin dinner. They cooked meat and vegetable buried in the sand. It was very tasty and interesting. We were served generous amount of transitional Bedouin tea (sweet tea infused with sage). We ended the night enjoying the night sky full of stars.
Deep in Wadi Rum
Hike to Um Ad Dami, a walk in white desert, Bedouin Spring.
The next morning, we woke up early for the hike to Um Ad Dami, the highest mountain in Wadi Rum. The hike showed off the vast expense of the desert. Along the way we found wild thyme growing between beautiful red and brown rocks. It was very windy especially at the summit where we were greeted by a flying Jordanian flag. We spent some afternoon time enjoying the view across Saudi Arabia. There were Golden Mice hidden amongst the rocks of the summit. After the decent, we had another cooked lunch in the desert. However, this time it was so windy we were hit by a small sand storm and we had to move. We then walked along the white desert and were showed springs and wells built by the Bedouins decades ago. As the sun sets, we headed back to our camp for one more night.
Petra
The King's Highway, The Siq, Treasury, The Street of Facades, High Place of Sacrifice, The Theatre, Colonnaded Street, Qasr al-Bint Temple, al-Khubta Trail, The Royal Tombs, The Monastery.
Rose city of Petra needs no introduction. One of new seven wonders of the world, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the film location of Indiana Jones: The Last Crusade. Since the bus from Rum Village to Petra was not running, we took a taxi with a couple of British tourists (I decided no names for privacy) we met in the camp instead, which worked out better actually.
The tickets into Petra were crazy expensive even for its status. 55JD each for two-day ticket. Ouch! Nonetheless, nothing we can do about it. As we entered the site, we were immediately greeted by bare sand and rock paths with people 'offering' horse rides through The Siq. They were supposed to be included in the ticket price but they do 'ask' for tips for the ride. Of course we used our feet instead. Unless you are physically less able, why would you want to whoosh through The Siq instead of enjoying the grand naturally-formed valley of colours.
The Siq was just incredible. It is an impressive work of mother nature. After about 1200 meters, we arrived at the famous Treasury where the film Indiana Jones: The Last Crusade were filmed. After walked passed The Streets of Facades, we walked up many steps of stairs to the High Place of Sacrifice. It was believed to be the place for sacrificing children as part of ritual ceremonies. The view along the journey was spectacular despite the wind. Guess who we bumped into. The couple of British girls we met in Wadi Rum! The evening wind was terrible which it kicked up a small sand storm once in a while.
We revisited The Siq and the Treasury the next day. Different light showed a different face of them. There was more contract between light and shadow in The Siq and the Treasury glows in golden hue in the morning sun. We hiked 800 stairs to the Monastery. The sheer altitude gave us a jaw-dropping view of the massive colourful rock mountains of Petra. The signs were so poor we were misled. Did I mention we were misguided by people who run donkey ride business in Petra? Disgusting. They just want business. Fortunate we stumbled upon a nice old gentleman who lives in one of the rocky mountains of Petra who pointed us to the right direction. Apparently it is not uncommon people took the wrong path. At the Monastery, we met a nice friendly Australian. We shared our journey to Petra Church and the Royal Tombs. From there, she needed to climb up to the High Place of Sacrifice which we recommended. We took the al-Khubta trail where we have a high-above view of the Treasury. We bumped into the British girls once again!
Madaba
St. George Orthodox Church (Map Church), Mount Nebo.
After Petra, we headed to Madaba in the evening for two nights. Madaba is an interesting town with a blend of Islam and Christian. From an outsider, it is harmonious despite the roads were filled with rushing drivers. The St George Church floor has a mosaic map dated between AD542 and 570 shows the map of Jerusalem. We walked around town but most churches has 'pay per entry' fee, which of course we did not fall into the trap! Mount Nebo is also a spot worth visiting. You get a panorama view of Jerusalem, for 2JD entrance fee. We were attracted to Anabtawi where we bought a selection of freshly made Arabic sweets. The manager was extremely welcoming and generous indeed. In the evening, we went back into the town centre where we negotiated hard for our souvenir. Since we spent most of our cash, we bought cheap falafel for dinner. It was supposed to be 0.50JD each but we were only charged 0.60JD for two! Again, Jordanian hospitality for you.
Dead Sea
Dead Sea Panorama Complex, Kempinski Ishtar Dead Sea Resort.
Having planned our journey with our friends we met in the Bedouin camp, we drove to the Dead Sea via the panoramic route. That piece of mountainous tarmac with twists and turns was jaw-dropping. We got great views every time we made a turn. At the resort, we were stopped by a large steel barrier at the security check point. The security officers made sure we had a reservation and held a large mirror on a handle to check underneath the car like what you see in movies! What a gorgeous resort it was. We were greeted straight away. Our car was parked and escorted to the lobby for check in. Fortunate enough for us, we were upgraded to a sea view villa! We were then driven to our room with a buggy where we admired the room and got changed. The moment you get into the Dead Sea, it feels magical that you just float. You read about it frequently and know how it works scientifically but you cannot stop feeling amazed but the wonder of the Dead Sea. There is only one of its kind in the world and the lowest point on earth. The water supply was tapped into before it reached the dead sea. Hence due to evaporation its saltiness increases over the years. From what we learnt in St George Church in Madaba, its water level is dropping 1 meter per year, though the rate may slow down due to saturation in density. The resort provided mineral rich Dead Sea mud, freshly dug from the sea bed. It is meant to heal illnesses such as psoriasis, arthritis and rhinosinusitis. We covered ourselves from head to toe. After we dried ourselves under the sun. we went back into the Dead Sea to wash it off. We were not supposed to stay too long in the salty water. So we rinsed and continued to enjoy the facilities such as the heated infinity pool while our friends sun-bathed. In the evening, we strolled within the resort grounds to appreciate the beautiful architect-designed resort.
Our package included a buffet dinner at the Obelisk Restaurant. The seafood served was very fresh. The variety of food was amazing. We had so much food. Of all places, we finally managed to sample mansaf, traditional Jordanian food made of lamb cooked in fermented dried yoghurt sauce (Jameed) served with rice. Jameed is has a sour tinge in taste but certainly interesting. Needless to say we also had so much dessert.
We were very full from the sumptuous buffet the night before but that did not stop us from sampling most of the food in our buffet breakfast on our last day in Jordan.
We felt heavy hearted to leave but we had to face reality aka work to fund more holidays. What a nice way to end our Jordan trip at the Dead Sea. From bare basic but stunning desert to small and harmonious Islamic and Christian town to a relaxing resort in Dead Sea. We thoroughly enjoyed Jordan. Its people is warm and welcoming. It has wonderful desert landscape, the unique Petra and shares the amazing Dead Sea with Jeresalem. More importantly we had a beautiful holiday together seeing places, experience new culture and meeting new people.